The Best Chapter

It isn’t always that our interviews take us to the inside of businesses, or we get an inside scoop of life abroad, but this interview did. We got to meet with Esen in the office where he works in Budapest. He invited us to Wise, and after we talked with him, he gave us a tour of the entire floor. Central Asian hospitality was on display as he showed us the various amenities offered and the large dining area, where we got to hear his story. Esen is originally from Myrza-Ake, which is in the southern part of Kyrgyzstan. He has moved several times, first to Bishkek, then after studying at university for a year there, he moved to Dubai before he took the opportunity given by the Stipendium Hungarian Scholarship to study at Corvinus University in Budapest. This is where he got his bachelor’s degree in business and started working for Wise, a global financial technology company. Unlike other students, though, he got married before coming to Budapest. It can be difficult moving to a new place and culture, but Esen avoided some of the stress by having his wife by his side. Life has been good in Budapest, as Esen describes it. There is a close Kyrgyz community in the city that allows celebrations like Nowruz, Eid, and Tushoo Kesuu. His family is even a part of the Central Asian running club that we heard about from many people there. He and his family, however, are preparing for a change soon. Esen will begin studying for his master’s degree in Beijing! This is an exciting move for his family, but it will be a big change from the streets of Hungary. He says that he felt it was time for a new direction; they had grown so much since embarking from Bishkek 5 years ago, and there was little left unexplored in Europe.  It was nice to sit down with Esen and hear his thoughts on the ever-changing world. There are times when we hear from students that after graduation, they don’t plan to return to their home countries. However, Esen told us that his family’s ultimate goal is to return to Kyrgyzstan and be part of the country's future development.

Amsterdam has a plethora of cafes, but if you want to try a new spot out, go to Nomos Coffee! Nomos Coffee is a newly opened Kazakh coffee shop near the famous Vondelpark in Amsterdam Zuid. I visited twice during my visit to Amsterdam. My first visit was during the grand opening on September 13. The cafe was packed for hours with Kazakhs coming to support the business. Kazakhs were not the only ones though! It seemed that everyone wanted to try the new spot in the neighborhood. While at Nomos, I got to meet so many of the Kazakhs who live in abroad in Amsterdam. We had lots of conversations and made some great connections! This spot is clearly a great place to meet people and hang out. Nomos offers unique and specialty coffees as well as all of the normal drinks that you would find at a cafe. Their strawberry matcha is one of their most popular drinks. Although I am new to drinking matcha, it tasted delicious to me!  Next time you’re in Amsterdam, go support local businesses and don’t miss out on this amazing spot!

Just a few blocks away from Notre Dame, you’ll find La Maison de Ouzbekistan, an Uzbek gallery and boutique store in Paris. One thing that caught my eye as soon as I walked in, was their beautiful stone arch that transported me back to my time in Uzbekistan last winter. As you walk through this arch, you can see the inside is decorated with colorful Uzbek tiles. Aside from the pieces to sell, they also have beautiful woven Ikat decor on the walls. All the vibrant colors and designs reminded me of all the amazing Uzbek designers that I have had the privilege to meet in my journeys. Inside this shop, you will find all kinds of goods from different regions of Uzbekistan including Samarkand and Bukhara. The dish ware was so elegant with a variety of patterns and colors. They had large bowls for serving or decoration and smaller more everyday cups and plates. They had unique vases and teapots that would be an addition to any home. If you already have plenty of dishes at home, then you can browse through a range of beautiful Ikat fabrics. They have clothes, scarves, pillowcases, tablecloths, and even shoes designed with the beautiful Uzbek fabric and embroidery. As you walk around this shop, you can see how these artists are adding contemporary twists to traditional Uzbek design. Uzbekistan has a rich history, especially as a hub for the ancient Silk Road. They have developed and curated their art for hundreds of years now, and it is amazing to see that displayed through textiles and dishware, among other things. Go check out their website below for more photos and information and don’t miss this must-see store on your next trip to Paris!

We met Alma at a cute coffee shop in Budapest while she was in the city for a friend's celebration. Alma is from Kazakhstan, was awarded the Stipendium Hungaricum scholarship and has been studying in Hungary for the past six years. She spent her first few years studying and receiving her bachelor's from Debrecen University, which is about a three-hour train ride east of Budapest. Debrecen University is very well known for having a large international student population that includes many Central Asians. With a few of her friends even started a running club specifically for Central Asians, which is still active today but has moved to Budapest. Specializing in pediatrics, Alma is currently working at a local hospital while finishing her residency for her doctorate program. We got to talk to her about her love of children's medicine and the beauty of getting to be a part of the beginning stages of life. She also has a passion to share and teach other Central Asians about how the human body works and uses her Instagram account to educate. Alma knows many languages and can speak English, Russian, Kazakh, Turkish, and now Hungarian, which she uses at the hospital where she treats Hungarians. Working in Hungary has opened the door for her to have new friends and a community that is Hungarian. While studying at university, she explained it can be easy to hang around only other international students, but now, after six years living here, she is building relationships with local Hungarians. She has even met new friends by taking local dance classes.  Going through medical school and learning Hungarian, which are both extremely difficult, were the challenges Alma shared about her time in Hungary. She also told us about how she finds it easier to express herself and practice Islam in Europe because she does not feel judgment but curiosity from those who do not understand and is able to explain her religion. During her time in Hungary, she has built an amazing community of other Central Asians and now local Hungarians while pursuing her dreams of becoming a doctor and helping others. We had an amazing time getting to know Alma, hearing her story about wanting to help others, and how she is thriving while making Hungary her home.

At 18, Aidaana bravely moved from Bishkek to Budapest to pursue her dream of traveling. We sat down for smoothies and talk to Aidanna about her journey from growing up in Kyrgyzstan to now living in Hungary, and what life is like in Europe compared to Central Asia. After high school, Aidaana received the Stipendium Hungaricum Scholarship and now attends Covinus University to study International Business with an emphasis on Economics. She lives on campus along with many other Central Asian students and works to help cover the costs of living in Europe. Getting to make her own schedule, she tutors other students in math to help with standardized testing, teaches piano, which she has played for ten years, and then teaches local Hungarians Russian. We asked Aidaana what challenges she has faced in Budapest so far, and she explained to us that the hardest challenge is the language barrier. While Hungary does have many English speakers, the majority of people primarily speak Hungarian, which can be extremely challenging when you do not speak that language. Another challenge she shared with us was that even though she is a very outgoing and active person, it took her about two years to fully feel like she had found her community in Budapest. Moving to a new city and country is very difficult, but through the struggles, she has learned so much more about herself and has become much more independent. Despite the challenges, Aidaana shared with us her joys of living in Budapest. First is the community; she has built many other Kyrgyz students. Every Saturday morning, a group of about 20-30 Central Asians gathers and runs about 5 kilometers as part of a Central Asian running club. Every year, many of the Kyrgyz community gather at the embassy to celebrate Nowruz with traditional music, dancing, and food. Aidanna also told us of how Budapest serves as a gateway to the rest of the world and that during her time at university, she has had many other opportunities to travel and explore the world through humanitarian projects and go to places like Spain, Greece, Romania, and Poland. Aidaana has accomplished so much for only living in Budapest for two years and is excited for what the future will bring and the new places she will get to explore. She also encompasses the Central Asian spirit of hospitality and was so kind, making us feel right at home with her while we learned her story.

Located in Eastern Turkey, specifically the Van Province, is a village of Pamir Kyrgyz. In the early 1920s, while Kyrgyzstan was under Soviet control, a group began heading south to escape communism. Starting in China, then making their way to Afghanistan and settling as semi-nomadic herding sheep and yaks in the Pamir Mountains. By the late 1980s, Afghanistan as a country was changing and started having conflict with the Soviet Union, causing the Pamirs Kyrgyz village to start its exodus. The village moved through Pakistan and then settled in what is now called Ulupamir village, which is named after the Pamir Mountains they came from. We headed to the village after contacting them through Instagram to go visit and see how they are keeping their Kyrgyz culture. The journey to the village consisted of flying to Van, taking a bus, and then a taxi to the other side of Van Lake. The village was extremely welcoming and excited to have visitors. We were greeted by the family we reached out to and invited to a yurt they have built, where we got to read the story of the Pamirs Kyrgyz people and their journey to Turkey from Afghanistan. We then went inside the family's home for chai and continued talking to them about life in the village. Everyone in the village learns Kyrgyz and Turkish to communicate, so we were able to use translation apps to speak with members of the community. The village has its own doctor's office, pharmacy, schools, and a mosque. Most members of the community are working in the field of agriculture but are expanding tourism and building a hotel to host tourists wanting to visit. The village still holds true to its Kyrgyz culture and is teaching the younger generations about their heritage. They still eat traditional Kyrgyz foods, speak Kyrgyz, learn traditional dances, dress in traditional clothes, and have their own kok-boru teams. The village is proud of its Kyrgyz roots but is not looking to go back to Kyrgyzstan. Most of the college-age students are traveling to bigger cities like Ankara and Antalya for university, with some moving back to the village and others staying in the bigger cities. While walking around, we got to see kids playing and families gathering together. We had an amazing time learning the history of the village and made new friends.

While visiting Kazakhstan, we discovered we had planned our trip at the perfect time of year—without even realizing it. In the spring, communities across the country come alive to celebrate Nowruz, an ancient festival marking the beginning of the new year and the start of spring. Rooted in Persian and Zoroastrian traditions over 3,000 years ago, Nowruz is now celebrated by many cultures in Central Asia, the Middle East, and the Caucasus, including Kurds, Turks, Tajiks, Persians, and others. During our trip, we were invited to celebrate Nowruz with a Kurdish community in Kazakhstan. They were surprised and delighted that Americans had traveled so far to be there and were very eager to share their culture with us. We watched as they performed traditional dances, often in a group, with small, graceful movements and long scarves flowing around them. The rhythm of the music and the unity of the group made the dance feel both joyful and spiritual. Pretty soon, people from different backgrounds and cultures were joining in, laughing and dancing together. It was a touching reminder that some experiences—like music and dance—can cross language and cultural barriers, allowing people to connect in a simple yet powerful way.  We spoke to one woman who shared that she is Kurdish but loves living in Almaty. She told us that the city is beautiful, surrounded by mountains and greenery, and that the people are warm and hospitable. She especially appreciates the freedom she has there to celebrate her culture. For many Kurds, keeping their language, music, and festivals alive is a way of honoring their history. We are so thankful we were able to experience the celebration of new beginnings with the Kurds in Kazakhstan. It reminded us that holidays like Nowruz are not only about marking time, but also about strengthening community, remembering history, and welcoming a hopeful future together.

Gwangju is a city of 1.5 million people of all heritages and backgrounds, with many who attend university or work in local factories. Many people from Central Asia are coming to Gwangju in hopes of working or pursuing higher education at universities, with some just coming back home. Gracie and I had the privilege of meeting and sitting with three young women who are ethnically Korean, but whose families have lived in Central Asia for the last few generations. Their stories are like many others, but unique, as it is their story that is still being written. We got to sit and talk with Alina first; she was born in Kazakhstan but then moved and was raised in Uzbekistan. In middle school, her parents decided to move their family to South Korea for work, so Alina and her twin sister started learning Korean and adjusting to a new culture. Alina is currently studying at a local university with a focus on fashion design, as South Korea is a leading country in the world of fashion and design. We talked about the challenges of living in a new country and having to learn a new language, along with adapting to a new culture. Alina’s family has been Christian for generations before moving to Central Asia and is still Christian today. When her family moved to Gwangju, they found a Christian church named Bright City Gwangju, which is for Ethnic Koreans who have lived in Central Asia. The service is held in Russian. Through the church, Alina and her family have been able to find community, like her friends Tate and Kate. They were able to join us for coffee and tell us some of their stories as well. Both of their families also work in factories while they are studying at local universities. Tate and Kate's families found the church and community of other ethnic Koreans from Central Asia before moving to South Korea and are now invested. We asked all three girls what the biggest challenges of living in South Korea have been, and they all agreed that language barriers were difficult. Because they are ethnically Korean but have lived in Central Asia for generations, they are not fully accepted into either community but have found their own here in Gwangju. The girls are also excited to learn more about their heritage and about the new opportunities offered in South Korea. We had a great time getting to know them and learning how they are building their own community in Gwangju and representing both cultures in their own unique ways.

Nowruz is an important celebration across many cultures, marking the start of spring and new beginnings. It has been celebrated for thousands of years and is especially meaningful in Central Asia, the Middle East, and nearby regions. While we were in Kazakhstan, we had the special opportunity to celebrate Nowruz with the Ahiska Turks, also known as Meskhetian Turks, a community with a rich history shaped by migration and resilience. We were warmly welcomed into their celebration, which was full of food, music, and dancing. It was such a meaningful experience to see how they shared their traditions and brought their community together. Even though we were outsiders, they included us so generously and took the time to explain the meaning behind Nowruz—focusing on togetherness. One woman in particular shared something that really stayed with us. She explained that while they respect and enjoy Kazakh culture, they are very intentional about preserving their Turkish heritage because it is such an important part of their identity. This reflects the history of the Ahiska Turks, who were originally from the Meskheti region of Georgia and were later displaced, eventually settling in places like Kazakhstan. She kindly filled our plates with traditional foods, including homemade mantı, which was absolutely delicious and clearly made with care. Food played such a central role in the celebration, bringing people together and connecting generations. Another highlight was seeing the traditional clothing worn by the Ahiska Turks. The detail, colors, and craftsmanship were beautiful and showed a strong sense of pride in their culture. We left feeling very grateful for the experience and for the chance to learn more about their traditions and what makes their community so unique.