An Au Pair in Berlin
November 1, 2023
When I think of an au pair, for some reason I always envision a Hallmark Christmas move situation where a small town girls becomes a nanny in a city like New York or Paris. Though Berlin is not as magical as the other two options, the experience is just an interesting despite not being like a Hallmark Christmas movie. I had the fortunate experience to meet an au pair in Berlin, who is actually from my neighborhood in Central Asia.
On a chilly night in Berlin, my friends and I decided to swing by a café and eat Central Asian food. We were immediately greeted by the warmth of the server, Elniza. She is from Kyrgyzstan and is a newer arrival to Berlin. We were able to chat for a bit, and thankfully, Elniza was kind enough to meet with us on another day.
Here, for over a year, Elniza is an au pair and was connected to a German family through a program in Kyrgyzstan. We chatted as we walked through a park with a flea market. I loved hearing about her hopes for the future as we shopped around and was glad to hear that her experience in Germany has been positive. One can immediately see that she loves the children she watches. Being an au pair, Elniza gets to improve her German and learn about culture as she cares for two children. Living and working with a family, she gets a real inside view of Germans. She noticed how differently Germans raise their children compared to Kyrgyz and the things she liked about it, as well as the things she didn’t. As an outsider in both cultures, it was fascinating to hear her thoughts.
A perk of being an au pair is that Elniza can travel with the family she works for. As a result, she has been to places that many of us only dream of and rarely have the opportunity to see. So far, her favorite place has been Brittany, France. I asked if I could go on her upcoming trip but, unfortunately, was denied as she laughed at my proposal.
I have frequently written about TCKs and their struggle in the in-between. Though not a TCK, she has her own version of the in-between after living in Germany. While missing and loving her family and home, when you are exposed to things outside of your worldview, you change. It is a natural part of the process. I often feel out of place in Central Asia, knowing that I am not, but also the tension in the US because I see things differently now. Anyone who leaves their home country to live in another culture feels this tension.
Despite loving the traveling and opportunities Germany brings, like most people, Elniza still misses home. Homesickness for anyone who lives far from home is very real. One has to search for a remedy that cannot be solved by purchasing a plane ticket. Everyone has their own way to get over their homesickness. Elniza’s cure is to go to cafes where she can enjoy Kyrgyz food, meet with other Kyrgyz friends in the au pair program, and celebrate Central Asian holidays. When she can, Elniza visits a relative in another city. Being reminded of a place one loves brings an extraordinary comfort that cannot be accurately described.
When I originally asked Elniza to meet and write about her, she said, “My story is not very interesting.” However, everyone has a story to share with their own unique perspective. She sees Germany, and now Kyrgyzstan, in a unique way. With another year left in her program, Elniza hopes to stay in Germany to study at the university. How long she stays is another question that she does not have the answer to yet. In the meantime, she is enjoying her new home. Yet, parts of your culture never leave you. With true Kyrgyz hospitality, she helped me get to the train station the day I left Berlin.
I look forward to our next walk in the park, but in Central Asia, where I can return the hospitality and kindness she has shown me.


On March 20th Malmo, Sweden celebrated a significant holiday that is not only important to the city but also to the cultures represented there! They call this festival “Newroz”, and Malmo is known throughout Sweden for having the most extravagant celebration! Newroz is a significant holiday to Persians, Kurds, and other ethnicities. The word “Newroz” means New Year and according to their calendar, this date is when the New Year starts. As we entered the festival, we noticed a large park with tents surrounding a stage. The festival began with food and drinks that are popular in Iraq and eaten on this special day. Many people were chatting with friends and enjoying the food. While this was happening, I found some friends to ask what this festival was and what it meant to them. They told us that this festival was to celebrate newness of life and is based on an ancient myth. The story goes that a mythical creature was mistreating everyone, tormenting the people. He would eat their brains and required human sacrifices each day. One day, a Kurdish man decided that this torment had to end, so he decided to fight the creature. Ultimately, he ended up defeating the creature and returned unity to the people again. The people now use this day to celebrate their liberation. During this festival, they usually tell the story of how this day came about. They also partake in food and dancing. While this festival differs throughout the Middle East and Central Asia, some parts remain the same. We soon learned that Iraqis were hosting this festival, but every culture had its moment to shine. Something that every culture had in common was joining together with torches and lighting a huge fire. While they gathered together and lit this fire I saw a magnificent sight. The people cheered and screamed as the biggest fire I had ever seen was lit. After the fire was lit, we sat and marveled at it for a while. Then, everyone gathered back around the stage where they sat and watched as every culture there displayed native dances. They also allowed people from every culture to join in and learn the dances with them! This soon became a time of laughter and excitement. I was overjoyed to see the expression on people's faces as they held up flags from their country and danced together as one. The people were clothed in their traditional dress from each country. The dresses were bright with lots of sparkles. Some dresses dangled with jewels while others lit up the night sky with how shiny they were. After the people finished dancing, they gathered together as they watched performers sing from each nation. These singers were amazing and drew in even more onlookers. Soon enough, the singing turned into dancing as everyone gathered in a circle and danced as one. This was a beautiful moment to see everyone united despite their differences joining together hand in hand. It was an amazing night that I will never forget! The people were so kind and ecstatic to share with us about their holiday. What a special day of unity and celebration that will turn into a lifelong memory for me!

Mutual acquaintances are the best way to make new friends when traveling. It takes the stress out of feeling like you are meeting someone for the first time. This is how I met Aidai, and with a mutual connection, it made getting along effortless. Immediately after connecting with her, she invited me to her family’s home for dinner. Her decorated home for the holidays was a welcome change from the dreary Lithuanian days. A home-cooked meal means the most to someone who has been traveling as well. Over dinner, I got to hear about the origin of Aidai’s beautiful family. She came to Lithuania 12 years ago to attend LCC International University in Klaipeda and major in liberal arts. After graduating, she began working in logistics and later met her husband, who is from Lithuania. The two have been married for almost six years, with two beautiful girls to boast of. Aidai is from Jalalabad, Kyrgyzstan, but spent time growing up in Moscow. Her family loves their home and life in Vilnius now. She has not lost her culture and even has Kyrgyz decorations around their home. The hospitality continued as they took me to try traditional Lithuanian food the next day. I was able to try the Cepelinai (potato dumplings) and Kepta Duona (fried rye bread) while talking about our favorite Central Asian dishes. It was a sweet moment learning that their oldest daughter calls her dad 'ata', the Kyrgyz word for 'dad'. It is this blending of many cultures in one family that allows for the birth of an upbringing unique to that family alone. Aidai’s husband also travels to the United States, often picking up some of their culture, or candy, I should say. Family is the most important thing to Aidai,a and she is hoping to welcome her mother to their home in Vilnius soon. This and time spent with the kid’s other grandparents make special memories that will also go into shaping the culture of who they are. I was grateful to be welcomed into their lives and home. They even gave me the great suggestion of attending a Euroleague basketball game in Kaunas. It is meetings like this that make me love Central Asian culture and want to return to Vilnius soon.

While exploring Milan I was overtaken by the beauty and the history of this magnificent city. What I was even more shocked by was the cultures that surrounded it. I got the privilege to meet Doga who has lived here for 6 years but is originally from Ankara, Turkey. Doga was a pleasure to meet with, and throughout our interview we heard all about her life here in Milan. She originally came to Milan to study medicine 6 years ago. She wanted to study medicine overseas but was not sure where after researching and finding the perfect university she decided to go to Milan to study. She spent her first 3 years here studying medicine and then decided to switch her major to Communications where she studied for another 3 years and just recently, she decided she wanted to go back to med school and finish her degree. When she first moved to Milan it was a little overwhelming at first because she did not know the language or the culture. Soon she fell in love with not only the language but the people. Doga talked highly about how warm and welcoming the Italians are. She feels like Italy has become her new home. So much so that when she leaves Italy even just for a little bit to go home and visit her family in Turkey she misses being in Milan. She has formed a beautiful community here filled with friends from Italy and Turkey. This helps Italy feel a little more like home to her. After Doga graduates from med school, she hopes to travel somewhere new to start over and to practice. She loves exploring new cultures and learning new languages. She is looking forward to the future and where she could potentially be! Who knows, she might even end up where you are at. If so, you will definitely have a friendship to last a lifetime from the kindest person.

The options for studying abroad almost seem endless. Places like China, Korea, Europe, America, and many more all offer opportunities to study for international students. Emilia was faced with the same decision of where to study for university when she and her family decided on the Czech Republic. Her parents were quick to say Prague, having visited the Czech Republic when they were younger, and so her adventure started. Emilia is from Kyrgyzstan, from the eastern city of Karakol. Karakol is home to the best ski base in all of Kyrgyzstan. It is a hidden gem for all who enjoy winter sports. When Emilia first arrived in Prague, the big city seemed like a great labyrinth. She had never needed to use a map to get around before and definitely had no need for the metro. However, with time, she began to learn about the large city and grow to love it. It was in 2020 when COVID hit, and she was unable to return home, that life became even harder. It was during this time that she started to reach out to the other Central Asia diaspora in Prague. The community she found in the diaspora groups encouraged her during this hard time. The friendships she made that year are still with her to this day. Emilia has since changed faculties and is now pursuing a degree in Marketing and Media at Pan European University. She is the administrator at a salon but hopes to soon find her way in the marketing world. I am glad I got the chance to meet with Emilia during my time in Prague. Karakol is now at the top of my list of cities to visit in Kyrgyzstan.

In a land filled with deep history and breathtaking beauty, there exists a people group just as captivating as the landscape itself. Jordan is home to many natural and ancient wonders of the world. Among them is the Dead Sea—the lowest point on Earth—where no living organism can survive. Another is the ancient city of Petra, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Here, you can explore the mysteries of those who lived in this region long ago, from the Moabites to the Edomites and many others. Throughout history, countless people groups have passed through this land, each leaving their mark on Jordan’s rich culture. One of these groups arrived during the Ottoman Empire and has lived here ever since: the Kurds. Although they have been in the region for generations, they have maintained their unique identity and traditions. Today, over 100,000 Kurds live in Jordan. Originally a nomadic people, they migrated from Turkey to Palestine and eventually to Jordan. They can be found throughout the major cities—Amman, Zarqa, Salt, and Irbid. A few times each year, the Kurdish community gathers to celebrate important cultural holidays such as Newroz. On this holiday, families head out into nature to enjoy a picnic together, followed by a day filled with singing and traditional dancing. These dances have been passed down through generations and remain a cherished part of Kurdish identity. One man, Mohyee, was passionate about preserving these traditions for the younger Kurdish generation. He decided to start a Kurdish club dedicated to celebrating their heritage and teaching children their ancestral language. Over the summer, he led a class where children learned to read and speak Kurdish. As we sat together drinking tea, we not only grew in our understanding of one another but also began forming a genuine friendship. That friendship led us to meet again a few days later—this time with another member of the club—as we explored the beautiful history and heritage of the city of Salt. The time we spent with the Kurds of Jordan made us feel not just welcomed, but embraced like family. If you are looking to experience one of the most unique and vibrant cultures in the world, you should meet the Kurds of Jordan. There, you will be amazed not only by the region’s incredible wonders but also by the wonderful people who call this place home.

I got to sit down and hear about Aisha’s story in a cozy tea shop in Prague. It was a warm, aromatic getaway from the cold outside. Aisha kindly picked out two good teas for us to try since it was my first time in a tea shop. I hadn’t planned to meet with Aisha before coming to Prague, but we just happened to meet outside Prague Castle. I stopped into Starbucks for a quick coffee where she was working, and we instantly connected over Central Asia. We traded contact info and later set up a time to meet for an interview. Aisha is from Kazakhstan, though not just from one city. She has spent time in several cities across the country. When she was 18, she continued the trend and moved to Prague for university. She has spent the last 6 years in the capital of the Czech Republic, with a few years in school and working at different jobs. All her goals now point to feeling comfortable where she is and with the people she works with. The simple life she grew up with still calls her in this stage of life. We got to bond even more over our favorite Central Asian dishes. Hers is nauryz kozhe, but only if made by her grandmother. This led us to talk about the differences in our cultures and upbringings. It was a warm welcome from Aisha, and I felt as though I already had a friend in Prague. She was sure to share with me all her favorite spots in the city and another tea shop to visit. I can only hope to visit Kazakhstan when she is back home and taste her grandmother's cooking for myself!

An integral part of all societies from ancient times to now is trade, but in order to have trade there has to be a trade route for people to use. One of the most popular and influential trade routes known today from the ancient civilizations was the Silk Road which connected China to the West or modern-day Europe. The Silk Road got its name from the silk being produced in China and then being traded to the West for other goods and services, it was also not just one road but many roads connecting to form a trading route. Goods like silk, silver, gold, and wool are what was primarily traded along the road, but disease and religious ideas also passed along from civilization to civilization. Burna Tower, one of the oldest architectural constructions of Central Asia and a piece of The Silk Road, is still standing today. From the ancient city of Balasagun now known as Tokmok, Kyrgyzstan in the Chuy Valley and is about 84 meters from the capital Bishkek. Built in the 11th century the tower is most believed to have been built as a minaret, a part of a mosque used for the call to prayer. The name Burna is derived from the Arabic word “monar” which also translates to minaret, giving more reason for the tower to have been a religious structure. But to many of the Kyrgyz people, the legend of a great Khan building the tower to save his daughter from a curse is still told and believed, though told differently depending on who you ask. The tower was originally 148 feet high but after multiple earthquakes, specifically a larger one in the 15th century, the tower's top half was damaged, causing the tower to be 82 feet tall as of today. Surrounded by mountains and an ancient burial ground, the tower is a well visited sight for tourists along with the museum. Archeologist have been exploring and exuviating many ancient treasures in and near the tower, with many artifacts still located in the museum for tourists to look at and gather a glimpse of days past. Most artifacts consist of pottery, ceramics, and coins from all different periods of history and cultures, representing the impact of The Silk Road. For those not scared of heights, dark, or enclosed spaced, then climbing the tower is a popular activity. A spiral staircase leads many tourists up to the tower and then through the entrance, which is very dark and allows for only one person to climb at a time, but the ending result is an amazing view of the valley and mountains surrounding. The tower is also next to an older burial site with tombstones also known as Bal-Bals dating back to the 6th-10th centuries from nomadic Turks who used to roam the area. Burna Tower is an amazing spot to go visit and learn more about the history and impact of The Silk Road but also to see the amazing landscape that makes up beautiful Kyrgyzstan.

Have you ever felt a pull to a city? Maybe it’s the history or the infrastructure, but sometimes it’s an indefinable quality from a combination of factors that draws a person in. When Jameli first visited Vienna two years ago, she felt that pull, and then she moved here from Astana, Kazakhstan. Vienna has not disappointed Jameli! She loves the history and architecture of the city as well as going to the amazing museums that are here. Being a student is a great perk because often museums will offer discounted prices to students. However, Jameli’s favorite museum is totally free for anyone! It is the Wien Museum near Karlsplatz, which tells the story of the city itself. Not only is this museum full of amazing pieces, but it also has a great terrace from which you can see the city center. Living in Vienna comes with its own challenges though. There is a lot of bureaucracy and affordable housing in the city is difficult to find. However, Jameli has worked through those challenges and has made Vienna feel like home. One of the main differences that Jameli has noticed between Vienna and Astana is the pace of life. In Astana, people are very busy. Even in a cafe, most people are working or on their phones. She loves how in Vienna, there is a slower pace to life. This might be in part because there is a large elderly population in the city. Regardless, Jameli is grateful for how Vienna has taught her about slowing down and enjoying life. Jameli wants to share her love for Vienna with others. She has started doing this by helping other Kazakhs move here. She helps people who are looking to move here with things like navigating through the required paperwork, finding a good area of the city to live in, and all of the other necessary things. What a great opportunity for her to help others who are in the same position that she was in two years ago! We had a great time hanging out, and I wish Jameli the best luck in her life here in Vienna and beyond.

The people I got to meet during my time in Prague were just as sweet as getting to see the sights of the old city. My last week in Prague was special as I got to meet up with several women from Central Asia. In the last days of my trip, I met Doolatkan and her friend Aiperi. They had both lived in Prague for 8 years and had many stories of their time in the Czech Republic to share with me. Doolatkan is from Kyrgyzstan, and her love of the country and culture spills out as she lives in Prague. She has started a community for the Kyrgyz Diaspora in Prague. They often meet up to share meals and take trips around the Czech Republic. This community is a way to remember their culture and spend time with others from Kyrgyzstan. She has found other Kyrgyz friends to enjoy time with when she isn’t working. I got to tag along with them for an evening in downtown Prague. We talked about their experiences in Prague over dinner at an Uzbek restaurant. Doolatkan and her friends often visit OSH Prague to eat their comfort foods from home. She even makes chalap to sell for those living in the Czech Republic. It was a memorable evening and one I will cherish. I know this will not be my last time in Prague or the last time I will see my new friends.

Have you dreamed of studying abroad? Aya, a Kazakh student in Vienna, always dreamed of living and studying abroad, and now she is living out that dream! For many students from Central Asia who are studying in Europe, a foundation course is required before beginning studies for their degree. This is required because most high schools in Central Asia finish at 11th grade, but most European universities require 12 years of schooling before enrolling in a bachelor’s degree program. So, at some universities, they have foundation courses that focus on language learning and other courses. This is what Aya is currently doing in preparation to start her International Business Administration degree! Since moving to Vienna two months ago, Aya has been soaking up all of the amazing things this city has to offer, including going to some museums, enjoying the cafes, and just walking through the streets admiring the beautiful architecture. Aya loves the big city atmosphere that Vienna has to offer, while also being accessible with reliable public transportation. Aya plans to make use of the time that she is studying in Europe to explore the surrounding countries like Spain, France, and Germany. However, she is not going to stop there. She wants to explore so many other places including North America, East Asia, and Africa! It is so fun to meet up with people who have such a drive to explore, see different parts of the world, and learn about other cultures and languages. I am excited to see what the next few years in Vienna will hold for Aya, and I hope that it is not the last time that we will meet!