Budapest, the Gateway to the World

Located in Eastern Turkey, specifically the Van Province, is a village of Pamir Kyrgyz. In the early 1920s, while Kyrgyzstan was under Soviet control, a group began heading south to escape communism. Starting in China, then making their way to Afghanistan and settling as semi-nomadic herding sheep and yaks in the Pamir Mountains. By the late 1980s, Afghanistan as a country was changing and started having conflict with the Soviet Union, causing the Pamirs Kyrgyz village to start its exodus. The village moved through Pakistan and then settled in what is now called Ulupamir village, which is named after the Pamir Mountains they came from. We headed to the village after contacting them through Instagram to go visit and see how they are keeping their Kyrgyz culture. The journey to the village consisted of flying to Van, taking a bus, and then a taxi to the other side of Van Lake. The village was extremely welcoming and excited to have visitors. We were greeted by the family we reached out to and invited to a yurt they have built, where we got to read the story of the Pamirs Kyrgyz people and their journey to Turkey from Afghanistan. We then went inside the family's home for chai and continued talking to them about life in the village. Everyone in the village learns Kyrgyz and Turkish to communicate, so we were able to use translation apps to speak with members of the community. The village has its own doctor's office, pharmacy, schools, and a mosque. Most members of the community are working in the field of agriculture but are expanding tourism and building a hotel to host tourists wanting to visit. The village still holds true to its Kyrgyz culture and is teaching the younger generations about their heritage. They still eat traditional Kyrgyz foods, speak Kyrgyz, learn traditional dances, dress in traditional clothes, and have their own kok-boru teams. The village is proud of its Kyrgyz roots but is not looking to go back to Kyrgyzstan. Most of the college-age students are traveling to bigger cities like Ankara and Antalya for university, with some moving back to the village and others staying in the bigger cities. While walking around, we got to see kids playing and families gathering together. We had an amazing time learning the history of the village and made new friends.

While visiting Kazakhstan, we discovered we had planned our trip at the perfect time of year—without even realizing it. In the spring, communities across the country come alive to celebrate Nowruz, an ancient festival marking the beginning of the new year and the start of spring. Rooted in Persian and Zoroastrian traditions over 3,000 years ago, Nowruz is now celebrated by many cultures in Central Asia, the Middle East, and the Caucasus, including Kurds, Turks, Tajiks, Persians, and others. During our trip, we were invited to celebrate Nowruz with a Kurdish community in Kazakhstan. They were surprised and delighted that Americans had traveled so far to be there and were very eager to share their culture with us. We watched as they performed traditional dances, often in a group, with small, graceful movements and long scarves flowing around them. The rhythm of the music and the unity of the group made the dance feel both joyful and spiritual. Pretty soon, people from different backgrounds and cultures were joining in, laughing and dancing together. It was a touching reminder that some experiences—like music and dance—can cross language and cultural barriers, allowing people to connect in a simple yet powerful way.  We spoke to one woman who shared that she is Kurdish but loves living in Almaty. She told us that the city is beautiful, surrounded by mountains and greenery, and that the people are warm and hospitable. She especially appreciates the freedom she has there to celebrate her culture. For many Kurds, keeping their language, music, and festivals alive is a way of honoring their history. We are so thankful we were able to experience the celebration of new beginnings with the Kurds in Kazakhstan. It reminded us that holidays like Nowruz are not only about marking time, but also about strengthening community, remembering history, and welcoming a hopeful future together.

Gwangju is a city of 1.5 million people of all heritages and backgrounds, with many who attend university or work in local factories. Many people from Central Asia are coming to Gwangju in hopes of working or pursuing higher education at universities, with some just coming back home. Gracie and I had the privilege of meeting and sitting with three young women who are ethnically Korean, but whose families have lived in Central Asia for the last few generations. Their stories are like many others, but unique, as it is their story that is still being written. We got to sit and talk with Alina first; she was born in Kazakhstan but then moved and was raised in Uzbekistan. In middle school, her parents decided to move their family to South Korea for work, so Alina and her twin sister started learning Korean and adjusting to a new culture. Alina is currently studying at a local university with a focus on fashion design, as South Korea is a leading country in the world of fashion and design. We talked about the challenges of living in a new country and having to learn a new language, along with adapting to a new culture. Alina’s family has been Christian for generations before moving to Central Asia and is still Christian today. When her family moved to Gwangju, they found a Christian church named Bright City Gwangju, which is for Ethnic Koreans who have lived in Central Asia. The service is held in Russian. Through the church, Alina and her family have been able to find community, like her friends Tate and Kate. They were able to join us for coffee and tell us some of their stories as well. Both of their families also work in factories while they are studying at local universities. Tate and Kate's families found the church and community of other ethnic Koreans from Central Asia before moving to South Korea and are now invested. We asked all three girls what the biggest challenges of living in South Korea have been, and they all agreed that language barriers were difficult. Because they are ethnically Korean but have lived in Central Asia for generations, they are not fully accepted into either community but have found their own here in Gwangju. The girls are also excited to learn more about their heritage and about the new opportunities offered in South Korea. We had a great time getting to know them and learning how they are building their own community in Gwangju and representing both cultures in their own unique ways.

Nowruz is an important celebration across many cultures, marking the start of spring and new beginnings. It has been celebrated for thousands of years and is especially meaningful in Central Asia, the Middle East, and nearby regions. While we were in Kazakhstan, we had the special opportunity to celebrate Nowruz with the Ahiska Turks, also known as Meskhetian Turks, a community with a rich history shaped by migration and resilience. We were warmly welcomed into their celebration, which was full of food, music, and dancing. It was such a meaningful experience to see how they shared their traditions and brought their community together. Even though we were outsiders, they included us so generously and took the time to explain the meaning behind Nowruz—focusing on togetherness. One woman in particular shared something that really stayed with us. She explained that while they respect and enjoy Kazakh culture, they are very intentional about preserving their Turkish heritage because it is such an important part of their identity. This reflects the history of the Ahiska Turks, who were originally from the Meskheti region of Georgia and were later displaced, eventually settling in places like Kazakhstan. She kindly filled our plates with traditional foods, including homemade mantı, which was absolutely delicious and clearly made with care. Food played such a central role in the celebration, bringing people together and connecting generations. Another highlight was seeing the traditional clothing worn by the Ahiska Turks. The detail, colors, and craftsmanship were beautiful and showed a strong sense of pride in their culture. We left feeling very grateful for the experience and for the chance to learn more about their traditions and what makes their community so unique.

Antalya, a city by the sea, is the perfect place to live amidst the mountains and history. The history that shows those who lived here millenniums ago and those who have come to this land since then. It is not unfamiliar to the other Turkic countries that have long been coming to its shores. Sharing a similar culture and language, Turkey has always been a destination for Central Asians. So, it is no surprise to find those who have made a new home for themselves here in Antalya. Among those, we met Meerim, a woman from Kyrgyzstan.  We sat down with her at Mado coffee in the MarkAntalya Mall which is ironically right next to a restaurant named Bishkek, where Meerim is from. She told us she has been living in Turkey for 13 years. Here in Antalya, she runs her own nail business. She uses Instagram to advertise her business and graciously gave us advice about how we could make our own travel blog account even better! In Central Asian, nails, hair, and cosmetics are a pivotal part of the culture and this remains true in Turkey. Meerim studied at a Turkish university in Bishkek which is where she learned the language before coming to Turkey. She told us the move to Turkey was as easy as buying a ticket and getting on a plane. However, it became easier to stay after she married her husband. Even though she has two amazing children and a job, she finds time to spend with her Kyrgyz friends. It is clear that she has a loving community of Kyrgyz women that all can relate to one another and gather often. Since her family is Turkish, she doesn’t always find time to cook her beloved Kyrgyz dishes, but you can expect to find traditional dishes on her table once a month. It was great to be able to practice my Russian as we communicated about the differences and similarities of Turkish and Kyrgyz culture. We were so glad that Meerim agreed to meet with us, and hopefully we will be able to meet again at the Nomad Games this year being held in Kyrgyzstan.

Gwangju is a beautiful city rich in history and culture located in southwest South Korea, just 200 miles south of Seoul or about a 2-hour train ride. This city is famously called “The City of Light” because it helped shine a light in paving the path for democracy throughout South Korea. The May 18th Democratic Uprising is a significant part of the history for not only Gwangju but South Korea as a whole. Gracie and I met a new friend Diana, who took us to the Asia Cultural Center for the new exhibition “The Cultural Heritage of Exchange in Central Asia” and walked through the memorial of May 18th Democratic Uprising. Diana was born and raised most of her young life in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan but now lives in Gwangju. In high school Diana’s father moved to South Korea for work and Diana came along excited to learn and embrace more of her cultural history. Diana is ethnically Korean, but for the last four generations her family has lived in Central Asia. Most of her family lives in either Bishkek or Tashkent, so she has spent a lot of time in both places until she moved to South Korea and made it her new home. She is the only one in her family to move back to her roots and embrace learning a new culture and language.  Diana graduated high school and college in South Korea then met her husband and is now a mother to a beautiful baby girl. She feels very much at home in South Korea but still holds onto her Central Asian culture. She invited us to come see the new exhibition at the Asia Cultural Center that was focusing on Central Asia. We got to talk and learn more about the extraordinary culture of Central Asia, walking through exhibits, and participating in interactive activities. The exhibition showcased the nomadic lifestyle of Central Asia and how they journeyed along the Silk Road, to the unique foods and fashion styles that represent Central Asia. Visitors to the exhibition can try on cultural articles of clothing and hats, see how local pottery is painted, and walk through a yurt. We enjoyed watching videos on how yurts are made from scratch, along with getting to sit and experience through large screens popular cities and sights from Central Asia that included sights from: Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Turkmenistan. We loved getting to see the history of Central Asia and its involvement with South Korea through the exhibition. Most importantly we got to make a new friend and hear her story of change, how she came back to her roots but has still embraced her Central Asian culture and plans to teach it to her daughter.

While traveling throughout the beautiful country of Georgia, we came across a large temple that immediately captured our attention. Curious, we decided to go inside and learn more. After walking through the gate, we were greeted by a young girl who kindly offered to give us a tour. She began showing us around the temple, explaining that it served as a place of worship for the Yezidi community. Upon entering the temple itself, we were instructed to cover our heads and wear appropriate clothing. Our guide then continued to walk us through the space, describing the meaning behind each religious symbol and its significance within Yezidi beliefs. We even had the opportunity to meet their Sheikh and introduce ourselves. After the temple tour, she took us to their cultural center. This center hosts a variety of activities for the community and serves as a place where traditions are celebrated. One such tradition will take place soon in honor of the arrival of spring. For this holiday, they bake a large cake with a coin hidden inside. Friends and family gather to celebrate and share the cake. Each person receives a slice, and whoever finds the coin is believed to have an exceptional year filled with good luck. This celebration is an annual event cherished by the Yezidi community. In addition to holiday gatherings, the cultural center offers language classes for younger children, helping preserve their heritage. They also provide religious courses for university-level students who wish to study Yezidi religion, history, or culture more deeply—or who aspire to one day become a Sheikh. Dormitories are available for these students, who not only attend classes but also participate in hands-on learning by helping organize holidays and community events throughout the summer program. This temple and cultural center serve not only as a place of worship, but also as a vibrant community hub where traditions are preserved, cultural identity is strengthened, and the next generation is raised with a deep understanding of their faith and heritage.

In the busy city of Seoul, among the tall buildings and rolling hills if you look, you can find a neighborhood touched by the culture of Central Asia. After you enjoy a large plate of plov and a sweet piece of honey cake for dessert, you can visit the Kazakh House just down the street. We were fortunate enough to be given an invitation to the opening of the Kazakh House by Marzhan while we were there. The ability to be welcomed by so many Central Asians all around the world is such a joy to have. The Kazakh House opening was a celebration put on each day for three days allowing for all that wanted to attend the opportunity to go. The event showcased the culture of Kazakhstan and the hope of sharing that culture with the Korean people. The Kazakh house would also offer a space for the Kazakhs of South Korea to gather and celebrate their traditional holidays. Somewhere they could feel as if they were at home even while being far away. This was beautifully displayed by the traditional aspects of the room. There you could find many pictures of the different Kazakh sights as well as traditional clothing for men and women.  The best part was the coming together of different people even among the celebration of one people. A representative from Korea and Kyrgyzstan spoke at the event speaking warm words of welcome and alliance in community. The event continued in merriment with traditional food such as kurut, samsas, horse sausage, and borsok of course accompanied by chai. Before the closing music was played on a Dombra by two skilled players playing the sounds of the Kazakh people. It wasn’t long before dancing began to commence. It was a treat to be able to attend this great event and learn even more about the Kazakh people and culture. Those that were there were so kind to us and the guests in attendance were given treats before we left, which we gladly accepted. I will never say no to Kazakhstan chocolate! Thank you to those in Seoul that welcomed us and thank you Kazakh House!

Just like many timeless romance stories, this one begins in a beautiful city with an unexpected connection between two young people. This is how Gulala’s story began when she met her husband. At the time, she was living in another country while he was living in Venice. Their paths crossed when he returned to his home country to visit family. A romance soon blossomed, and they quickly fell in love. Not long after, she moved to Venice to marry him and begin their life together. Today, they have two children in high school and have worked tirelessly to build a meaningful life in their adopted city. Both she and her husband work full-time jobs and remain deeply involved in their community. They have dedicated themselves to creating a welcoming environment for others who, like them, have journeyed from one country to another in search of opportunity and belonging. During our time with Gulala, we not only had the pleasure of meeting her wonderful daughter, but also one of her closest friends. Their friendship began when her friend was searching for housing. Gulala welcomed her with open arms, immediately recognizing that she was also Kurdish, and from that moment a lifelong bond was formed. Inspired by the community she herself found, Gulala hopes to continue building the same sense of belonging for others. Her vision is to create a group for Kurdish women—a space where they can meet regularly, celebrate holidays, and honor their traditions together. She has already begun forming this group and is excited for the future it may bring to her and her friends. Gulala is a light to so many people in her community—someone working to preserve culture, strengthen relationships, and ensure that others feel at home. It was a privilege to meet her, her family, and her friends. She welcomed us warmly and made us feel like part of her community in the few short hours we spent together. She is truly a blessing to those around her.