Where the Tien Shan Meets the Mediterranean Sea

Gwangju is a beautiful city rich in history and culture located in southwest South Korea, just 200 miles south of Seoul or about a 2-hour train ride. This city is famously called “The City of Light” because it helped shine a light in paving the path for democracy throughout South Korea. The May 18th Democratic Uprising is a significant part of the history for not only Gwangju but South Korea as a whole. Gracie and I met a new friend Diana, who took us to the Asia Cultural Center for the new exhibition “The Cultural Heritage of Exchange in Central Asia” and walked through the memorial of May 18th Democratic Uprising. Diana was born and raised most of her young life in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan but now lives in Gwangju. In high school Diana’s father moved to South Korea for work and Diana came along excited to learn and embrace more of her cultural history. Diana is ethnically Korean, but for the last four generations her family has lived in Central Asia. Most of her family lives in either Bishkek or Tashkent, so she has spent a lot of time in both places until she moved to South Korea and made it her new home. She is the only one in her family to move back to her roots and embrace learning a new culture and language.  Diana graduated high school and college in South Korea then met her husband and is now a mother to a beautiful baby girl. She feels very much at home in South Korea but still holds onto her Central Asian culture. She invited us to come see the new exhibition at the Asia Cultural Center that was focusing on Central Asia. We got to talk and learn more about the extraordinary culture of Central Asia, walking through exhibits, and participating in interactive activities. The exhibition showcased the nomadic lifestyle of Central Asia and how they journeyed along the Silk Road, to the unique foods and fashion styles that represent Central Asia. Visitors to the exhibition can try on cultural articles of clothing and hats, see how local pottery is painted, and walk through a yurt. We enjoyed watching videos on how yurts are made from scratch, along with getting to sit and experience through large screens popular cities and sights from Central Asia that included sights from: Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Turkmenistan. We loved getting to see the history of Central Asia and its involvement with South Korea through the exhibition. Most importantly we got to make a new friend and hear her story of change, how she came back to her roots but has still embraced her Central Asian culture and plans to teach it to her daughter.

While traveling throughout the beautiful country of Georgia, we came across a large temple that immediately captured our attention. Curious, we decided to go inside and learn more. After walking through the gate, we were greeted by a young girl who kindly offered to give us a tour. She began showing us around the temple, explaining that it served as a place of worship for the Yezidi community. Upon entering the temple itself, we were instructed to cover our heads and wear appropriate clothing. Our guide then continued to walk us through the space, describing the meaning behind each religious symbol and its significance within Yezidi beliefs. We even had the opportunity to meet their Sheikh and introduce ourselves. After the temple tour, she took us to their cultural center. This center hosts a variety of activities for the community and serves as a place where traditions are celebrated. One such tradition will take place soon in honor of the arrival of spring. For this holiday, they bake a large cake with a coin hidden inside. Friends and family gather to celebrate and share the cake. Each person receives a slice, and whoever finds the coin is believed to have an exceptional year filled with good luck. This celebration is an annual event cherished by the Yezidi community. In addition to holiday gatherings, the cultural center offers language classes for younger children, helping preserve their heritage. They also provide religious courses for university-level students who wish to study Yezidi religion, history, or culture more deeply—or who aspire to one day become a Sheikh. Dormitories are available for these students, who not only attend classes but also participate in hands-on learning by helping organize holidays and community events throughout the summer program. This temple and cultural center serve not only as a place of worship, but also as a vibrant community hub where traditions are preserved, cultural identity is strengthened, and the next generation is raised with a deep understanding of their faith and heritage.

In the busy city of Seoul, among the tall buildings and rolling hills if you look, you can find a neighborhood touched by the culture of Central Asia. After you enjoy a large plate of plov and a sweet piece of honey cake for dessert, you can visit the Kazakh House just down the street. We were fortunate enough to be given an invitation to the opening of the Kazakh House by Marzhan while we were there. The ability to be welcomed by so many Central Asians all around the world is such a joy to have. The Kazakh House opening was a celebration put on each day for three days allowing for all that wanted to attend the opportunity to go. The event showcased the culture of Kazakhstan and the hope of sharing that culture with the Korean people. The Kazakh house would also offer a space for the Kazakhs of South Korea to gather and celebrate their traditional holidays. Somewhere they could feel as if they were at home even while being far away. This was beautifully displayed by the traditional aspects of the room. There you could find many pictures of the different Kazakh sights as well as traditional clothing for men and women.  The best part was the coming together of different people even among the celebration of one people. A representative from Korea and Kyrgyzstan spoke at the event speaking warm words of welcome and alliance in community. The event continued in merriment with traditional food such as kurut, samsas, horse sausage, and borsok of course accompanied by chai. Before the closing music was played on a Dombra by two skilled players playing the sounds of the Kazakh people. It wasn’t long before dancing began to commence. It was a treat to be able to attend this great event and learn even more about the Kazakh people and culture. Those that were there were so kind to us and the guests in attendance were given treats before we left, which we gladly accepted. I will never say no to Kazakhstan chocolate! Thank you to those in Seoul that welcomed us and thank you Kazakh House!

Just like many timeless romance stories, this one begins in a beautiful city with an unexpected connection between two young people. This is how Gulala’s story began when she met her husband. At the time, she was living in another country while he was living in Venice. Their paths crossed when he returned to his home country to visit family. A romance soon blossomed, and they quickly fell in love. Not long after, she moved to Venice to marry him and begin their life together. Today, they have two children in high school and have worked tirelessly to build a meaningful life in their adopted city. Both she and her husband work full-time jobs and remain deeply involved in their community. They have dedicated themselves to creating a welcoming environment for others who, like them, have journeyed from one country to another in search of opportunity and belonging. During our time with Gulala, we not only had the pleasure of meeting her wonderful daughter, but also one of her closest friends. Their friendship began when her friend was searching for housing. Gulala welcomed her with open arms, immediately recognizing that she was also Kurdish, and from that moment a lifelong bond was formed. Inspired by the community she herself found, Gulala hopes to continue building the same sense of belonging for others. Her vision is to create a group for Kurdish women—a space where they can meet regularly, celebrate holidays, and honor their traditions together. She has already begun forming this group and is excited for the future it may bring to her and her friends. Gulala is a light to so many people in her community—someone working to preserve culture, strengthen relationships, and ensure that others feel at home. It was a privilege to meet her, her family, and her friends. She welcomed us warmly and made us feel like part of her community in the few short hours we spent together. She is truly a blessing to those around her.

Seoul is rapidly becoming an international hub for foreigners to study, work, or make just to make a new home. Many Central Asians are moving to South Korea including me and Gracie's new friend Marzhan, who came to study at university. We meet up at the opening of a Kazak house, which is a community space for Central Asians to gather and meet for different activities that embrace their culture. Marzhan is from Almaty, Kazakhstan and has lived overseas for the past five years with a few years in Turkey and now in South Korea for the past two years. She is in Seoul on a GKS scholarship and attends a local university, Marzhan highly recommends it as a pathway to come to Korea to study for Central Asians. She learned Korean in just seven months as a requirement for the scholarship but told us that Korean was not as hard to learn because of similarities to Kazak, her native language. Marzhan can speak multiple languages including Russian, Kazak, Turkish, English, and now Korean. We asked Marzhan what the easiest part of living in South Korea has been and she explained that it was public transportation. South Korea has very clean and consistent public transportation in forms of trains, metros, buses, and taxis that are easy for foreigners to use and not break the bank. Marzhan also told us the hardest part of living in South Korea is studying at a university in a nonnative language. All Marzhan's studies are done in Korean, so she has the obstacle of having to translate everything while trying to learn it and keep up with her classmates. The pace of life is also a lot different, as South Korea is faster paced and highly competitive while Central Asia is more of a slower pace focusing on relationships over being on time. This can be a huge adjustment for foreigners while transitioning but as Marzhan has shown it can be done and done well. Another obstacle we discussed was how in South Korea they eat a lot of pork and or have pork byproducts in many foods like jelly causing it to be very hard to keep halal. We also talked about how the influence of K-Dramas and K-Pop has impacted Central Asians view on South Korea. Marzhan has seen how many Central Asians will move to South Korea for various reasons and then stay after marring a local South Korean. Marzhan is loving her time in South Korea and had amazing things to say about her new home. Yet she is still staying true to her Central Asian roots like helping with the grand opening of the Kazak house and teaching those around her about her culture while embracing and fabulously adjusting to Korean culture.

During my visit to Bologna, Italy, I was reminded of the essence of genuine hospitality, even in a place that’s not your home. I had the pleasure of meeting Ece, a university student studying abroad in Bologna. As we enjoyed our cappuccinos, she shared her exciting journey that led her here. Originally from Izmir, Turkey, Ece spent a significant part of her life in Germany, which ignited her passion for travel at an early age. With her sights set on studying in Italy, she was captivated by the rich culture and vibrant social environment. As she and her father packed their car for a road trip, Ece made the brave decision to relocate to Bologna to pursue a degree in Business, immersing herself in a culture and language that were new to her. Though she faced some initial challenges in adjusting, Ece quickly discovered the community she sought. She surrounded herself with a diverse group of friends, including Turkish, Italian, and international students. Encouraged to connect with other Turkish university students, she found a supportive network that truly understands her. Even in her first year, Ece has become comfortable sharing the city she adores with others. Ece graciously took on the role of my tour guide for the day, eager to show me her favorite spots in Bologna, known as the “Seven Secrets.” As we strolled between the secrets, we discussed life as university students. One intriguing sight was a small rectangular cut-out in the street; peering into it felt like gazing at a canal in Venice! Another highlight was the “Due Torri,” or the Twin Towers, which stand proudly in the city. At 48 meters tall, one tower leans dramatically at about four degrees—steeper than the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa. One of the aspects I cherish most about Turkish culture is their exceptional hospitality. Ece’s warm welcome made me feel at home, even in a city that isn’t hers. The next time you find yourself in Bologna, be sure to explore the city and uncover the remaining five secrets on your own!

My time in Lithuania only got better as I traveled to Kaunas. The city of Kaunas was a quiet and beautiful city, boasting one of the longest pedestrian shopping walks in Europe. With multiple historical sites and Euro league basketball games, Kaunas rose its way up my list of favorite tourist cities. It is also home to many Central Asians who live, work, and study in its quaint atmosphere. I got to meet one of the students and his wife, who came to Lithuania. Nurasyl and Camila are both from Astana in Kazakhstan but met in Kaunas through the Erasmus program. They got married this year and are currently living in Kaunas until Nurasyl finishes university. Their plans are to go back to Kazakhstan for a little while before trying to pursue living in Europe again. Their experiences in Lithuania have been good, though they recognize the differences between Central Asian culture and Eastern European culture. Nurasyl talked about how Lithuania has been different than Kazakhstan, with a quieter life but still a nice time. It is through English that they are able to go to university and get around Lithuania. They have been able to find a Kazakh community in Kaunas that has helped with the cultural differences and distance from home. Nurasyl says the men can be found playing football on the weekends and gathering at the local mosque to pray together on Fridays. There was even another Kazakh student who was in university with Nurasyl, who became a close friend. I have heard that finding a community that understands you and your cultural background can ease the stresses of living somewhere new. It was a great time getting to meet Nurasyl and Camila and hearing about how they met. They were even sweet enough to treat me to a traditional Lithuanian pastry along the Liberty Avenue walkway. The invitation to visit them and their families in Kazakhstan was extended, and I can’t wait to see when I will get to visit.

One of the most worthwhile aspects of visiting cultural landmarks is discovering the inspiring history of people groups who have endured significant hardships yet remain unwavering. We had the opportunity to learn about the culture of the Yazidis through a visit to their main temple in Armenia. The Yazidis are a small but fascinating group mostly living in northern Iraq and nearby areas. Their religion is truly unique, mixing ideas from different ancient beliefs, worshipping a figure called Melek Taus, the Peacock Angel. Despite facing a lot of hardship over the years, the Yazidis have kept their traditions, stories, and culture alive, making them a strong and proud community. The Quba Mere Diwane is the world's largest Yazidi temple, located around the Armavir province, about an hour drive outside of Yerevan. The temple, opened in September 2019, features seven domes symbolizing the Seven Angels of Yazidi theology and is dedicated to Melek Taus. The design is inspired by the holiest Yazidi site, Lalish in northern Iraq, and the temple serves as a spiritual center for the Yazidi community in Armenia. As we walked around the temple, we were fascinated to read the plaques and observe the statues, which painted a picture of Yazidi customs and history. The views of the white marbled temple situated on a hill with the mountains of Armenia in the background were truly breathtaking! One monument in particular stood out, a monument dedicated to brotherhood between the Armenian and Yazidi nations. The religious pictures reflected on the statue were a symbol of the bond of the two nations. In the front was a Peacock, which is the symbol of Yazidism. And in the back was an Armenian cross surrounded by rays of sun. On the bottom, a symbol of eternity marked the eternal solidarity between the two nations and their religions. This was a beautiful picture of the shared history and heritage of two peoples who both call Armenia their home.

On March 20th Malmo, Sweden celebrated a significant holiday that is not only important to the city but also to the cultures represented there! They call this festival “Newroz”, and Malmo is known throughout Sweden for having the most extravagant celebration! Newroz is a significant holiday to Persians, Kurds, and other ethnicities. The word “Newroz” means New Year and according to their calendar, this date is when the New Year starts. As we entered the festival, we noticed a large park with tents surrounding a stage. The festival began with food and drinks that are popular in Iraq and eaten on this special day. Many people were chatting with friends and enjoying the food. While this was happening, I found some friends to ask what this festival was and what it meant to them. They told us that this festival was to celebrate newness of life and is based on an ancient myth. The story goes that a mythical creature was mistreating everyone, tormenting the people. He would eat their brains and required human sacrifices each day. One day, a Kurdish man decided that this torment had to end, so he decided to fight the creature. Ultimately, he ended up defeating the creature and returned unity to the people again. The people now use this day to celebrate their liberation. During this festival, they usually tell the story of how this day came about. They also partake in food and dancing. While this festival differs throughout the Middle East and Central Asia, some parts remain the same. We soon learned that Iraqis were hosting this festival, but every culture had its moment to shine. Something that every culture had in common was joining together with torches and lighting a huge fire. While they gathered together and lit this fire I saw a magnificent sight. The people cheered and screamed as the biggest fire I had ever seen was lit. After the fire was lit, we sat and marveled at it for a while. Then, everyone gathered back around the stage where they sat and watched as every culture there displayed native dances. They also allowed people from every culture to join in and learn the dances with them! This soon became a time of laughter and excitement. I was overjoyed to see the expression on people's faces as they held up flags from their country and danced together as one. The people were clothed in their traditional dress from each country. The dresses were bright with lots of sparkles. Some dresses dangled with jewels while others lit up the night sky with how shiny they were. After the people finished dancing, they gathered together as they watched performers sing from each nation. These singers were amazing and drew in even more onlookers. Soon enough, the singing turned into dancing as everyone gathered in a circle and danced as one. This was a beautiful moment to see everyone united despite their differences joining together hand in hand. It was an amazing night that I will never forget! The people were so kind and ecstatic to share with us about their holiday. What a special day of unity and celebration that will turn into a lifelong memory for me!